The “Cuero y Salado” National Park with a View of Utila
The Cuero y Salado National Park is located 10 kilometers west of La Ceiba, along the coastline facing Utila and Roatan. Designated as a protected area in 1987, the Foundation of Cuero y Salado was established in 1989. The park spans 32,700 acres and features a diverse range of ecosystems, including forests, grasslands, mangroves, beaches, and sandbars. The Cuero River winds through the park before emptying into the Caribbean Sea, and it also branches off into multiple water channels that serve as habitats for manatees.
The measures taken by the Honduran government in 2020 and 2021 to protect its citizens from the COVID-19 virus have had some unintended consequences for the park. The lockdowns led to the closure of the Cuero y Salado tourist train, which now sits abandoned behind a fence in La Unión. Previously, this simple but reliable train would depart for the park entrance at 7 a.m., 9 a.m., and 11 a.m. daily.
“La Burra” remains the only way to reach the Cuero y Salado.
Visitor numbers to the park have dwindled significantly. There is no signage directing people to the park from the main highway near La Unión. Two communities are situated near the park, and residents use motorcycles or burros to bring in supplies from the nearby town of La Union. As of mid-2023, the only way to reach the Cuero y Salado station for locals is via a narrow path running parallel to the former train tracks, which is just wide enough for a motorcycle or bicycle.
For visitors, “La Burra” remains the only way to reach the Cuero y Salado station. As primitive as railway transport can get, “La Burra” consists of a wooden platform set on two train axles, which themselves rest on wooden planks. The vehicle is propelled by a person riding a motorcycle, who pushes it along with one foot.
The burras are privately owned. For Lps. 700, a local individual propels the burra the 7-8 kilometers using a 125 Genesis motorcycle. The metal narrow-gauge train tracks are worn, and their spacing varies. The vibration of metal on metal reverberates through the passengers’ backs as they travel.
As the burra approaches a small bridge, the motorcycle rider gives it an extra push, allowing it to coast across to the other side. The century-old narrow-gauge train track winds through cow pastures and fields for several kilometers before reaching the station, which serves as the tourist departure point for the park.
At the end of the train line lies the small village of Salado Barra, where residents are descendants of workers from the Standard Fruit Company. The community features old wooden houses built on stilts. There is a school, as well as the headquarters of the Cuero y Salado Park, which serves as the departure point for boat tours into the park.
Motorboats can be hired for two or four hours, accompanied by a guide knowledgeable about the flora and fauna of the trees and forests surrounding the waters.
The park’s biggest attraction is the bashful manatees, which are also the most difficult to spot. These shy creatures are most often seen during early morning boat rides. “Last year, one manatee was found dead, likely from natural causes, as no cuts or impacts were found,” says the guide. “It took 20 men to pull it ashore. It was examined and then buried.”
The crocodiles are nearly as elusive as the manatees, but they are more numerous and can often be seen with their heads above the water’s surface, even at midday. The crocodiles lay their eggs on the sandy islands that separate the park from the sea.
Hundreds of crocodiles reside within the park’s boundaries, and their red eyes can be spotted just above the water’s surface during nighttime tours. The shy American Crocodile, which can grow up to 20 feet long, is sometimes seen basking in the sun on the sand. In 2023, the first-ever recorded attack on a human by a crocodile occurred in Cuero y Salado. A person was hunting a crocodile with a harpoon when the reptile acted in self-defense, slashing the man’s leg open. This unprecedented attack baffled many as crocodiles usually stick to a diet of fish and feed at night, avoiding humans unless provoked.
Giant white mangroves tower over the canals, reaching heights of up to 40 meters. Red mangroves are smaller and line the narrower branches of the canals. Coco lobo trees and coconut palms also manage to thrive along the water’s edge.
Large trees serve as vantage points for dozens of bird species attracted to the brackish water of Cuero y Salado. The loudest bird calls come from the omnivorous Montezuma Oropendolas, which can be heard and seen living in hanging woven nest colonies on large trees adjacent to the mangroves. These striking birds produce loud “cack” and “crrrk” calls.
Several families of Howler monkeys, consisting of 10 to 20 individuals each, spend their days foraging for fruit or simply resting. Their only natural predator is the jaguar, whose tracks have not been seen in the park for many years. White-faced monkeys can also be observed in the park.
Several families of Howler monkeys, consisting of 10 to 20 individuals each, spend their days foraging for fruit or simply resting. Their only natural predator is the jaguar, whose tracks have not been seen in the park for many years. White-faced monkeys can also be observed in the park.
Another community located in the park is Boca Cerrada, which is much more remote and situated on the banks of Thompson Lagoon on the west side of the park. Although Cuero y Salado has fallen somewhat into disrepair, the animals inhabiting the park don’t seem to mind.
